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London – Christopher Kane headed back to his pedigree - both Scottish and aesthetic - in a rather grown-up, maybe too much so, fall 2009 collection staged Sunday, Feb. 22, in London.Where Kane has won himself a cult reputation for his avant garde ideas - everything from the exotic bondage dresses in multi-colored strands of nylon of 2007 to "Planet of the Apes," pre-historic "armadillo" dresses six months ago this season he seemed more interested in commercial credibility than with mixed vivid lines and the darkest plaid.
"Bar codes, where I wanted to get the graphic lines of my sketches into the clothes," was the designers cryptic explanation of his fall 2009 collection, where black lines ran vertically, horizontally and brokenly over see-through tulle and silk looks.
For such an iconoclastic designer, the iconic look this season was, in fact, surprisingly retro a lapel-free cardigan jacket that recalled a design first developed by Pierre Cardin and made famous by The Beatles.
Yet, there was also an airy feel to these clothes, where half the skirts and dresses were semi-transparent and several featured revealing panels.
Staged in the high-ceiling, underground show space of Top Shop - for whom Kane is a contributing designer - the show did soar for evening wear when models hit the catwalk in the semi-transparent Celtic chic. The standout image was a paneled sheer, graphic sleeveless cocktail.
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